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At Etta, chef Danny Grant plays with fire at a cooler price point

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The talent behind Maple & Ash's Gold Coast lands in Wicker Park. I was suffering from mental gout two and a half years ago when the Gold Coast's Maple & Ash opened in the midst of a citywide steak-house glut. When I proved unable to face another expense-account feedlot, Julia Thiel soldiered on in my place as I treated my symptoms with white rice and raw ginger.…

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