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Leña Brava is another triumph for Rick Bayless

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The Frontera chef summons fire and ice at his Baja-inspired seafood spot. Two years ago, when Rick Bayless devoted the entire eighth season of his PBS series Mexico: One Plate at a Time to the syncretic food of Mexico's Baja Peninsula, someone should've guessed that his long-gestating, closely guarded plan for Randolph Street—something he promised would be completely new to Chicago—would be somehow related. Well, here it is: Leña Brava is the chef's love letter to the seafood-dominant riches of Baja, with its inherent Mediterranean and Asian influences, cooked in the crucible of three wood-burning fires at the back of a busy, clamorous room.…

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