The chef’s follow-up to La Sirena Clandestina puts the flame to Argentine food.
When meals involve chefs summoning hunks of spitting meat from towering curtains of flame, they summon all sorts of pleasurable primeval associations: the sun setting over the field where your enemies lie vanquished, your horse is tied panting to a post, and you're wiping gore from your blades in anticipation of the spoils you've killed for. For whatever reason, over the past year or two, chefs all over the city are recognizing, if not the fantastic allure of open-hearth cooking, then at least the very tactile pleasures of flame-kissed food.…
The chef’s follow-up to La Sirena Clandestina puts the flame to Argentine food.
When meals involve chefs summoning hunks of spitting meat from towering curtains of flame, they summon all sorts of pleasurable primeval associations: the sun setting over the field where your enemies lie vanquished, your horse is tied panting to a post, and you're wiping gore from your blades in anticipation of the spoils you've killed for. For whatever reason, over the past year or two, chefs all over the city are recognizing, if not the fantastic allure of open-hearth cooking, then at least the very tactile pleasures of flame-kissed food.…