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016 Restaurant dials in the peppery, meaty spirit of southern Serbia

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A vet of Publican Quality Meats and Tempesta settles in Lincoln Square. Bojan Milicevic's hometown is best known for two things: thick, sweet, and spicy ancho-like red adjvarka peppers, which blanket exterior house walls as they dry each autumn, and September's Roštiljijada, "barbecue week," when the main drag is occupied by hundreds of amateur and professional grillers firing up everything from cevapcici to uštipak, to whole hogs and lambs, only upstaged by the record-holding pljeskavica, the world's largest Serbian burger. Milicevic was raised in this crucible of the barbecue arts, beginning as a busboy at the age of 11 in his father's restaurants in the southern Serbian town of Leskovac.…

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