A Bite of Szechuan adds to an undersung neighborhood dining scene

Chef Dingguo Cheng turns out uncompromising Chinese food in West Rogers Park. There was a feast of epic proportions under way a few weekends ago at the then month-old A Bite of Szechuan. At the center of the sunlit dining room the staff had pushed nearly half the restaurant's tables together to accommodate a family of some two dozen grandparents, mothers, fathers, aunts, uncles, brothers, sisters, and cousins, all celebrating some happy occasion with a long, leisurely Sunday lunch.…