West Town’s Funkenhausen ain’t your opa’s German beer hall

Chef Mark Steuer (the Bedford, Carriage House, et al) gets personal but not too serious at his new West Town brasserie. Mark Steuer's new German restaurant isn't named for his teenage all-accordion Krautrock cover band—though I wouldn't be surprised if he could pull something like that off. It is, however, a long-awaited return to the main stage by a chef who's veered all over the culinary map since his first days in Chicago, handling the savory side of things at Hot Chocolate, and then moving on to the Gage.…